Waterfowler's mac and cheese baked golden, melted sharp cheddar, visible goose hearts and Montréal smoked meat chunks

Waterfowler's Mac and Cheese

The mac and cheese you make after a day in the marsh.

Prep20 min
Cook40 min
Yield3 to 4 servings
LevelIntermediate

Ingredients

Topping

  • Goose or duck hearts, trimmed and quartered10
  • Montréal smoked meat, in chunks — even better if you find duck smoked meat8 oz
  • Bacon, cut into small pieces5.3 oz
  • Onion, cut into brunoise1
  • Garlic clove, minced1

Pasta

  • Macaroni, cooked al dente, 1 to 2 minutes less than package directions1⅔ lb

Cheese sauce

  • Sharp yellow cheddar, shredded, plus extra for topping8 oz
  • Velveeta, cubed — non-negotiable, it's what makes the texture8 oz
  • Butter, 4 tablespoons, for the roux¼ cup
  • All-purpose flour, 4 tablespoons, unbleached¼ cup
  • Evaporated milk, 1 standard can1½ cups
  • Red ale, Boréale Rousse or St-Ambroise Pale Ale ideal2½ cups
  • Smoked paprika, 2 tablespoons2 tbsp
  • Québec Gorria pepper, 1 tablespoon, or another local Espelette-style pepper1 tbsp

Steps

  1. 01
    Trim the goose or duck hearts by removing the fatty vessels at the top, then quarter them. Dice the onion into brunoise (clean 3 mm cubes), cut the bacon into small lardons, and mince the garlic. Reserve everything in separate bowls.
  2. 02
    In a large skillet over medium-high heat, render the bacon lardons for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the brunoise onion and the garlic, cook 2 minutes. Crank the heat to high and add the quartered hearts. Sear 2 to 3 minutes, stirring — you want good color but a pink center. Reserve in a large bowl.
  3. 03
    Drop the macaroni into a large pot of salted boiling water, cutting 1 to 2 minutes off the package time. The pasta must stay clearly firm — it'll keep cooking in the oven later. Drain and reserve. Do not rinse.
  4. 04
    In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour, smoked paprika and Gorria pepper. Whisk for 1 minute to cook the flour — you want it to lose its raw taste without browning. The paste should smell like warm biscuit.
  5. 05
    Pour the evaporated milk and red ale into the roux, little by little, whisking hard to avoid lumps. Bring to a gentle boil while stirring constantly — the sauce will thicken progressively over 4 to 5 minutes. If you spot any lumps, strain the sauce through a fine sieve before continuing.
  6. 06
    Off the heat, add the shredded sharp cheddar and the Velveeta cubes. Stir gently until everything is melted and the sauce is smooth and glossy. If too thick, loosen with a splash of evaporated milk. Taste and adjust salt — careful, the smoked meat coming up is already salty.
  7. 07
    Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). In a large bowl, combine the cooked pasta, cheese sauce, bacon-seared hearts, and Montréal smoked meat chunks. Fold gently with a wooden spoon. Transfer to a large buttered baking dish. Top generously with extra shredded cheddar.
  8. 08
    Bake 20 minutes at 375°F. Switch to broil for 4 to 5 minutes, watching closely — you want a golden bubbling cheese crust, not burnt. Rest 5 minutes before serving: this lets the sauce set slightly so it doesn't run on the plate.