Plate of pasta with wild duck ragu in red wine, rich and glossy Italian sauce

Sugo d'anatra alla Veneta

A family staple — duck, red wine, orange, cinnamon.

Prep20 min
Cook3 h
Yield3 to 4 servings

Ingredients

For the meat

  • Wild duck breast, or 3 to 4 whole teals if you're working with smaller ducks2

For the aromatic base

  • Onion, yellow, finely diced1
  • Carrot, finely diced3
  • Celery, stalks, finely diced3
  • Bay leaf2

For the braise

  • Red wine, full-bodied, like a Malbec or Cabernet. Don't go cheap on this one⅔ cup
  • Chicken stock, homemade waterfowl stock is even better if you have it5.2 cups
  • Tomato sauce, homemade if possible, about 1 1/2 cups1½ cups
  • Tomato paste, 1 tablespoon1 tbsp
  • Orange, zest and juice of both2
  • Ground cinnamon, 2 teaspoons, divided in half2 tsp

For cooking and serving

  • Olive oil, extra virgin, as needed
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • Long pasta, pappardelle, tagliatelle or fettuccine14⅛ oz

Steps

  1. 01
    Cut the onion, carrots and celery into a fine, even dice. This is the Venetian soffritto: the finer the cut, the smoother the sauce ends up.
  2. 02
    Coat the duck breasts with half the cinnamon, covering every surface. In a cast-iron pot over high heat, sear the breasts in a drizzle of olive oil until they take on a deep golden color on all sides. Set aside on a plate.
  3. 03
    In the same pot, add a bit of olive oil if there isn't enough fat. Add the diced vegetables along with the orange zest and bay leaves. Sweat over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. The vegetables should turn translucent without browning.
  4. 04
    Turn the heat to medium-high and pour in the red wine. Scrape the bottom of the pot to lift the caramelized bits. Reduce by half, until the alcohol smell is gone and the mixture has thickened slightly.
  5. 05
    Return the duck breasts to the pot. Add the tomato sauce, tomato paste, stock, orange juice and the remaining cinnamon. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer and partially cover.
  6. 06
    Transfer to a 350°F (175°C) oven for 2 to 3 hours, depending on the size of the pieces. The braise is ready when the meat falls apart at the touch of a fork. Not before. This is the step where time can't be cheated.
  7. 07
    Pull the pot from the oven. Lift out the duck breasts and place them on a large dish. Shred the meat with a fork into generous chunks, discarding any dry edges.
  8. 08
    Transfer the cooking liquid, unfiltered, to a large non-stick skillet. Return the shredded meat to the sauce. Reduce over medium heat until the sauce is nearly dry and clings to the meat. Taste and adjust seasoning.
  9. 09
    Cook the long pasta in plenty of salted water until al dente. Drain, reserving a ladle of pasta water. Pour the pasta directly into the sauce skillet, add a splash of pasta water and toss over low heat for 1 minute. Serve immediately, in warm bowls.